Lace-machine.



J. FARIGOULEI` LAGE MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 21. 1910.

Patented Oct. 6, 1914.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

1HE MORRIS PETERS ca PHOTU-LITHO.. WASHINGTON. D, C,

10 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

J. FARIGUULE.

LAGE MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 27, 1910.

Patented Oct. 6, 1914.

Fig. 4.

llllunlmmlllllll I I 0 l NoRRls PETERS CO4. PHOTO-Unio.. WASHINGTON. u c

Patented 0011.6, 1914.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

6 Z M m i.

THE MORRIS PETERS C0.. FHOTU-LITHD. WASHINGTON. D. CA

J. FARIGOULE.

LAGE MACHINE.

APPLIUATION FILED MAY a7, 1910.

1,112,996. Patented Oct. 6, 1914.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

WITNESSES INVENTOK /M/ /60 x/f BY/r/P figg ATTO N EYS THE NORRIS FEYERSC0.. PHOYOALITHO.. WASHINGTON. I)4 C4 J. FARIGOULE.

LAGE MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 27, 1910. 1,1 1 2,996.

Patented Oct. 6, 1914.`

1o SHEETS-s112111 s.

THE MORRIS PETERS C0.. PHoro-LlTHO.. WASHINOFON. n. #fr4 J. FARIGOULE.

LACE MACHINE.

APPLIoATIoN FILED MAY 2v. 1910.

l, 1 1 2,996. Patented 0013.6,1914

l. YHE NcRR/s PETERS Co.4 PHOm-LITNO.. WASHINGTON. D. C.

J. FARIGOULB.

LAGE MACHINE.

APPLIoATIoN FILED MAY 27, 1910.

Patented 0G13. 6, 1914.

1o snBBTs-SHEBT a.

.MW n Fm. n

THE NORiRIS PETERS C0.. PHOTOLITHO., WASHINGTUN. D. C.

J. FARIGOULE.

,LAGE MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 27. 1910.'

1,1 1 2,996. Patented 0013. 6, 1914.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

Fg- 16- Fig. 20.

FigQH.

55 Lad 5e 1HE MORRIS PETERS CilA PHOTO-urne.. WASHINGTON. D c4 normen .N1

, .rearrangements er rams,:FRANCEmr LACE-,MAC'l-IINE.

To M Zwlrom it may concern Be it knownthat 1,1` JEAN FARIGOULE, of

.t0 Rue des J euneurs` inthe city `of Paris, Republic `of France,merchant, have `1nvented Improvements "in LacerMachines, of

which"`the following is `a full,clear, and i exact description.` Thepresent inventlonhas for object which `the Workman places inthe holeslin` the card bearing the patternto be produced,

and which are left in long enough to prevent the pattern formedfrombecomlng distort-` edgthe operator executes thepatternof the lace bycrossing each time either tyvo bobbins With each other or one bobbinwith several others, and producesa lace as line as the pricking olf isitself moreor less line, that is to say, as the pins are more or`lessclose to each other. The production of undistortible patterns offsuchvaried 'andne effects in manufacture byhand is due there-` fore :-`-l,to the prickingjfhofi' at the `desired points by pins leftin place forthe necessary time; 2.1 to the optional crossings at each passage ofabolobin` either with an-` other bobbin or with several bobbins; 3.1to`the neness of the pricking offwvhich forms the pattern. i 1

The present invention; for the manufac ture of lace reproduces exactlythesame ef-` fects as are obtained by manufacture by hand, because itpossesses mechanism` capable carrying out the above specifiedconditions.

In tulle or imitation lace looms the crossings of the threadsarcfrai'sed at the center of" the loom `by tivo bars provided withpoints and forming combs and Workingalternately. While one of these barsraisesi the crossings just formedhthe other bar With its pointsmaintains at the center `of the loom those Which it haspreviouslybrought up, but it lets them go as soon as "the first has arrived at itsheight. These points can therefore onlymaintaini and hold back lthethreads during acerta'in time, as do the pins in hand manufacture; allthe crossings u brought up successively to the center of the pSpecificationQfLetterszatent, Applicatonjled May 2,7, lilOynSeria1..1\1o..563,817.1`

maderby` hand. Looms have also been"inmovement the crossings` which havejust `or spool thread passing alternately infront 1101' Patented oer. e,1914.

loom` becomepressed` against `each otherA in `a uniformlmanner.f Theselooms cannot therefore reproduce the patterns of i lace ventedzhavingindependent `points Worked i individuall-'yiby a jacquard operatingmechanism, these points carrying the crossings to the desired points.

`The loomwwhich constitutes the subject matterofthef present `invention.is characterized from `these different systems of known looms by aspecial point device, `combined so as -tofullexactly the same functionas 4the pins #in `hand manufacture. This devicehas a. ban with pointssimilar to that in 70 ordinary-looms, and a line of points inde-Pendentiof each other `mounted `on a level with the center of the*loomfand receiving their motion from` a jacquard throughkthe y medium:ofa Yspecial operating mechanism, 75` combined `so that certainoflthesepoints can reinaiu` engaged in f the crossings of the `threads whilethebthers withdraw them-y selvesythe pointI barthusraises up at each Ibet-informed, either `against the points which f i have remained .inplaceto produce some effect, or against the crossings previously `formedat placosfivhere thepoints 4havebeen Withdrawn.` i

'VIhe presentloomlis also combined so as to crosswandiuterlace in `anymanner Whatsoever, at each movement, the bobbin threads either with eachother orwith the spool threads.

In the ordinary looms, itis only possible to make,betweenthe bobbinthreadsjand Warp orspoolthreads, ateach motion of" the loom, crossingsof` alike kind, that is to say, thewarp or spool threads Vpass accord``ingto the motion either all in front of or` all behindbthe Lbobbinthread, allthe car` riages being driven simultaneously. The result ofthis is that when a Warp or spool threadlias to pass alternately infront of and behind several bobbin threads, the loom has to make,` to`cause this thread to pass, y a number of motions equal to that` of the"i bobbin threads encountered.L i y In lace looms; when all the crossingsare executed Vexclusively With the bobbin threads, each series ofcrossings requires stroke of the loom; if the crossingsare exocute/dwith thelbobbinthreads andra Warp of and behind these bobbinthreadsfewer motions are required, but always two strokes at least the loom inthe most favorable' case, that is to say, if the crossings alternateregularly and more if the crossings alter' manufacture, because thenumber of bob.

bins which the` operator can handle at each passage or shot isnecessarily very limited. rlhis crossing oi the bobbin threads and warpor spool threads `is produced in the presentloom by the employment' of aspecial operating mechanism worked by a jacquard and producingoptionally the stoppage or longitudinal movement of the eX- ternalcombars.

In tulle or imitation lace looms, a suliiciently Vgreat ineness can beobtainedv owing to.,the vsimplicity ofthe operating mechani'sni ot thecarriages, which, being always driven simultaneously, may be tine andclose to each other, but in looms for lace where it is necessary thatthe carriages be moved independently of each other, the necessity of'.employing special devices for driving each carriage has hithertoprevented laces of greatv ineness from being obtained.

The present loom permits, notwithstand ingthe jacquard driving of thepoints and of the carriages, of obtaining a nenessy which is as great asis obtained in the ordinary loo'ms; to this end it is provided withspecial devices for mounting, guiding, articulating, selecting anddriving the carriages andY their pull rods, thewhole being combined 'soas to permit of the use of carriages of very small thickness very` closetol each other, and of consequently obtaining very great iineness.

The present loom, by the special constituey tion and combination vof itsessential devices, is capable of. carrying out the operations of usualhand manufacture and of producing the same eiects as are obtained bythis'latter. j z

The accompanying drawingshows, by way of example, the. present systemofv loom. Figure yl. isa transverse section of the loom;v the ligurebeing carried upon two sheets of the drawings; Figs. 2 and 3 showdiierent positions of the device with the kjacquard driven points; Fig.4 is a front view of the whole of the loom, certain parts being insection, the figure being carried upon two sheets of the drawings; Fig.4a

illustrates the j acquards controlling the bars l of the device; Fig. 5is a corresponding plan, the ligure being carried upon two lsheets of,the` drawings; Fig. 6 is an end view showing the driving mechanism ofthe exterior coinb-bars; Figs. 7 and 8 are two Vdetailviews of one ofthe middle combbars; Fig. 7 being a vertical section along the line ill-A oi Fig. 8; Fig. 8 is a horizontal section taken along the line BB ofFig. 7j Figs 9 and 10 are two detail views 'of the support for theselecting levers of the carriages, Fig. 9 being an elevation and F ig.v10 a transverse section taken along the linev mounting of .the pullvrods on their needles; j Fig. 19is a transverse section von an enlargedscale of the pull rods engaged between the teeth of the combs andresting on their needles; Fig. 20 is a plan view showing thedistribution of the needles which drive the pull rods; Figs. 21, 22,23-show diferent arrangements of bars intended for the driving oftheneedles working the pull rods of the selecting levers. Figs. 24, 25and 26 show in horizontal sections the respective lpositions of the barsrepresented in Figs.

21,22 and 23; Figs. 27 and 28 show twoA patterns made kby the presentsystem of.:

loom; Figs. 29 to 33 show, on an enlarged scale, theditlerent shotsv forthe manufac ture of a pattern called Point dEsprit or Mouche; Fig..34,sliow s the finished pat tern; Fig, shows apattern made up of' anumber of 4superposed sections.

In the present improved looinrthe carriages 1 arel conducted from themiddle comb-bars 2, 3 to the front or rear combbars 4, 'rby catch bars6, 7; eachy carriage is brought into engagement with the catch bar roe4- which has to operate it by a lever 8 worked bya jacquard apparatus aswill bedescribed hereafter. i

r he fro-nt comb-bar 2 is cap-able of lbeing raised at the front so astopermit the op-y erator to pass, without any difficulty, the warp orvspool threads into the bars 9 seated between the two comb-bars2and 3 tothis end the comb of this comb-bar is smaller, as is shown by Fig. 1.

rlhe comb-bars 4 and 5, aswell as the catch bars 6 and 7, are capable ofreceiving a to and fro nievement in the longitudinal direction of theloom.

A point bar l0, mounted in the ordinary way in front of the loom,collectsy the crossingstogether and raises them to the center of theloom, when the carriages have been all brought back into the twocomb-bars of the middle 2, 3. j c Y heels passing between the teeth ofthe combs.`

y i. i. t

\ At the back land at the level of the center of the loom, isarranged `arow of points 11" corresponding to the points 'of the bar 10; thesepoints 11, which are'all independent of` each other, are intended tofulfil the same function as the `pins inthe manufacture `of lace lbyhand. Thesepoints 11 are guided by the combs 12 mounted fon thefxedsupport 18.` The combs 12 ghavev a comb bar on which the heels of thepoint 11 restlthesaid The advance and recoil `movements of each point 11is controlled `by the following device. Each point `11 is jointed at 141t0 a` bent `lever 15 movable about a shaft 16. All

r these various levers areiguided Vin a comb 17 fixedupon the center bar18 of the loom. Each lever 15carries-a1needle 19 opposite which isarranged a set of `perforated bars 205 operated by one ofthe jacquardsof the loom, for example by the jacquard A,` illustrated in Fig. 4: andwhich works the bars 9 of the warp or spool threads; the bars 20 aremovable inthe `supports 21 mounted on the `shaft 16,` and receive anintermittent oscillating motion from acam 22 keyed on the rear shaft 23of the loom, and engaging onexend of a lever connected at its other endwith the support 21, asis shown in Figs.

1 and 4. i

The needles 19 `of the levers 15 are not all in the same plane becauseowing to their very great closeness to each other it would be impossibleto employhjacquard driving; theseneedles 19 are set out en eri/wlan,asis shown in Fig. 1,` and insuch a way that the needles,\driven by thesame bars are situated at sufficient intervals toV allow theperforations inthe bars 20`to beeasily made. According asthe bars 20`present a solid or a i `perforated part to theneedles 19 of the levers15, these bars carried along in the oscillating movement of the support21 keyed on the shaft 16,`communicate or do not communicate a` slightangular move-` A ment to `these levers 15$in` the direction `of thearrowsho-wn. By this angular move ment the rear extremities of the levers 15thus raised are broughtvopposite a `bar 24: which receives anoscillating movement about `a shaft 25; this movement is controlled by acam 26 keyed on the rear shaft movement to the corresponding points 11`23, the bar 24 carries along in its movement the levers 15 which itencounters, and these levers then transmit afrecoil orbackward Intherecoil or backward movement `(see Fig. 2), the `heel of each` point 11engages in a box27 movable vertically.

A device for producingqvertical movement *of the box 2'4" is showninvFig. 1, and consists of a lever 27 connected `with the box andpivotally connectedwith a spring controlled frifhcr 27". the latterbeing controlled by a cam 27 on the shaft 23. Thisl deviceisgiven way ofexampleand it is` obvious that any `other suitabledevice might be used.`

The box 27 lifts in its movement upward the heels of tliepoints 11 whichhave been brought to the rear and thus communicates an angular movementto these points 11` front ends of the points 11` are lowered as is againbetween the threads by passing bev neat-h thepoint bavrl() at the "frontofthe loom, which at this moment is raisedto the `about their pivots 14;in thismovement the,

center of the `loompand engaged between` the threads.-

rEhe forward movement of the points 11 takes place when the bar 24returns `to the rear this movement is assured by a return bar 28 whichis caused to act upon the rear ends of the levers 15.` Y t t teaclimotion of the loom, .the needles" of the levers 15, which are opposite asolid part of the bars 20 are engaged by said solid part, andthe leversare raised and bring the points 11 back to the rear and disengage themfrom the tissue; on the contrary the levers 15,` to the needlesof whichthe bars 2O present a perforated part, remain stationary-and the pointslllcorresponding thereto remain en 'aged in the tissue. Thesepointstherefore `fulfil the same function as the pins which are leftstuckinthe cushion' in the manufacture `of lace by hand; these :pointsl 11.may thus remain engaged in the tissue while several motions are made ifit be nec` essary.`

As has been stated above the carriages 1 are brought into engagementeither withfthe front catch-bar6,` or with the rear catch-bar 1 7, bylevers 8; for the manufacture `of aline lace however it is necessary touse carriages of very small thickness and placed` very close toeachother and, on `the other handit is indispensable to give` to thelevers `S` a` suflcient `thickness to prevent "them" from" bending andpassing beside the carriages which they are to drive.` To this endto`enable a thickness to be given to these levers fwhichis greaterthanthat of the teeth of the carriages, the teeth` of the comb-bar atthe center 3 are chamfered, as shown in iio" Figs.` 7 Sand 8 so thatthis comb-bar presents greater intervals at the part where theheads"`each lever has bosses 3 1 so that thefrictional surfaces arevery muchreduced, v(seel Figs. 12 to 14). f

jio

'consequence of this .-play Uand of` the very large number ofyleverswhich the loom has, j it is necessary to `preventthe leversfrombecoming jammed one against the other, because in such case owing toall the clearances f becoming added together it would lhappen 'theopposite direction. rlhe guidingand the that ,the levers would no longerbe properly spaced with regard to their respective carriages. In' ordertherefore to avoid this movement of the levers the gutter k30 has,` atintervals, at every ten centimeters for example, separator blades 32(Figs. 9 and lO) of very small thickness, (a tenth of a millimeterforexample or thereabout). Each lever receives its movement of oscillationfrom a pull rod 33; this pull rod is jointed to the lever which it has,and to this end it terminates in a head of circular form engaged in acircular gap in the lever. mode of jointing permits of the levers andpull rods being of the same thickness y throughout.

y vIn order that the pull rods may be kept engaged in their respectivelevers, these pull rods and these levers have heads and gaps alternatelyof great Aand small diameter as shown in Figs. l1 to rl5; the heads ofgreat diameter 34 are thus held by the two adj acent levers, the gaps ofsmall diameter of which cannot allow these heads of large 'diameter topass, and the heads of small diameter 35 of the pull rods interposed.be-

tween the preceding ones are retained in the gaps in the correspondinglevers by the heads of great diameterv 34 on the adjacent pull rods. Thepull rods and the levers are thusfjointed andheldtogether without anyauxiliary parts.v

Fach pull rod 33 has atitsl other end .a heel 36 having `steps arrangedso thatjthis pull rod shall be carried alongin the move-v ment oftranslation ofthe bars of rods 37, 38 which receive a movement .oftranslation in operationof these bars or rods is assured by thefollowing device: The rod 37 is supported at intervals byarms 39,mounted upon rods 40 capable of sliding` freely in two collars 4l, 42carried by the rearz bar 43. The rod 40 'receives a to and fro movementwhich is communicated to it by a bent lever `44, movable about astationary shaft 45, and

worked by a cam 46 keyed upon a shaft 47 arranged along the whole lengthof the loom and driven by the main front shaft (see Figs. l and 5). ITherod 38 rests, at

intervals, upon small fixed supports48, yand carries, opposite each ofthe supporting and This vlar needles 57, 58

guiding devices of the rod37, 'dan arm y49v terminating in a socket 50capable of sliding freely kupon the rod 40; each rod 40 is jointed toalever 5l movable about a shaft 52 and jointed at its other` end toan arm53 integral-with the arm 49- and xed upon the rods 33.` rljheto and fromovement of the rod 40 is thus communicated in an opposite sense to therod` 38. This device for supportingkand guiding the bars or rods 37, 38

.is repeated for example about everyBO-centi- Under these conditionsthesebars,

assured. They consequently always coml `municate to the pull rods, overthe whole length of the loom, movements which have rigorously the sameamplitude. By the special constitution of these devices for support andguidance, the lubricating oil, necessary for the proper working of themechanisni, cannot get at the pull rods and conse-y quently there is nofear of these pull rods becoming stuck together andy so producingmisses.7 nected to a return bar 54intended to bring l back to the. rearthe pull rods which'have been previously thrust forward. By this setofbars 37, 38, 54 which move to and fro in the transverse direction ofthe loom the pull rods are carried alongeither toward the front ortoward the rear or are not carried along according-to the height.. theyare. at, that is to say according Jtothe notches which they presentopposite the bars or rods.

`The pull rods `which have. been thrust toward the rear by the bar 37engaging the .notches iii-said pull rods, are brought backv rlhe bar orrod 38 isalso con.v

icc

again to their original position by the moves` ment of this same bar inthe opposite direction. yThe pull rods which have been thrust toward thefront by thel bar 38 are.

brought rback to their` original position by Vthe return bar 54. lnconsequence the movevment apart of the bars 37, 54, or in other wordsthe opening of the rods,-shown at D its maximum in Fig. 1,1 causes allthe pull rodsto be brought backagain to their normal position in such away that the levers jointed to these pull rods present their upper `endsexactly opposite the notches of the carriages in which they have toengage on the upward movement of the gutter 30.-

The pull rods are held and guided in their j vertical movement and theirto and fr0 rods with the long bearing surfaces are engaged by the latterin the intervalsfcomf prised between the teeth of the comb 55 and Thepull f ymovement by two combs 55, 56 engaging diriges Athoseoi the combpull rods theShort bearing surfaces,y interposed{be` an enlarged scalein Fig.l 19. y a l l The movement of the needles is less than thelheightof the teeth `ofthe combs so that y the needles 57, upon which the pullrods with the long bearing surfaces rest, may be Halways guided bythesefteeth.

height or these pull redsat the place where they are supported,islilijewise so calculated `as toy` always guide theneedles 58 whichmove between them and above'the teeth of 'the combs. y l l The needles5S, which support the pull rods with the short bearing surfaces, arelonger, and traverse the two combs 55, 56 in suCh a way that theirvertical rodsare ene gaged in the intervals injoneof thecombs and` theirrectangularly lient back arms `rest on the upper part of the teethoicthe (other comb'engaged in these intervals asis "shown in Figs. 1,8 and19.

`each comb being superior" to y the thickness of the pull rods athickness superiorto that ofthese latter may be given to the vertical irodso the needlesf. y Owing to their bent back shape the needleswhatever their position in the combs may be,`all act at the same `peintof the pull rods and they all consequently communicate fonthe samefliitthe same movements to the pull rods. By means of this device the needlescan befmoved apart "from each other and consequently theholes in thebars oi the Jacquard driving mechanism which has to work `them maybevery 4i wide apart. l

The long and short needles are `engagedin` a guide box` which isstationary and the top Gland the bottom 62 of which has perfora tionsintended to receive ythese needles;` the f5 top of this guide boxconstitutes a support for the bent arms ofthe short needles 57 when theyare not raised.` The lower ends ofthe needles 57, S project below thebottom of the guidebox. Below this guide box cal movement to andfrofandin which are mounted two superposedsets 64, 65 olwper-` en Aemployed as shown inFigQiQO, each bar car- The total i The free spaceleft between the teethofmoves a support `G3 which receives a` verti-``prying along or not carrying along its needle 'ith "it in the vertical`movement which it receivesaceordingl as itfpresents to it a solid partor a perforation. y y

For the manufacture ofwider laces ref l quiring for example 32," 48 or641 carriages,

as it will `not be possible to placethese bars "in the same` plane,` allalongside each other they are superposed Ain rows of sixteen, so y. thatthefbars corresponding to the `seventeenth," thirtythird and forty-ninthcarriages areplaced under the .bar ofthe first carriage the `barscorresponding "to: the eighteenth, thirty-fourth and `ftieth cari`riages under the bai" ot the second carriage and `so on. The positionof three of said `super-posed bars .is indicatedfinzFig. 241.

yIn order that the bars of these superposed` rows shall `not interferewith each other in N their working, each of these bars has suppleumentary ho-lespermittingof the tree passage of the needles driven bytheother bars situatedabove them or below themas is` shown in Fig. Qlywhichshows three superposed bars. `(lpposite a solid part of 1one"9"0` i barthe other two always presenta perfora- For thepurpose of increasing thenumber of holes in these bars without increasing the` size `of thespaceoccupied by them these `9`5 holes are arranged in the followingmanner.

lnlthe `arrangement asshown in `F ig. 22` two consecutive needles l aredrivenby `two juxtaposed bars. In the arrangement shown mi; in Fig.Qytliesetwvobars arereplacech by two other superposed` bars each shavingi two lines ofperit'orations, one line being for `theconibiiietien of solidparts and perforated y parts corresponding `to theneedles `driven M" by the baranda continuous line of perfora- 1105 l dieof the intervals existing betweenthe per- [10 j felations of theotherline,` andthetwolines loi` perforations may thusbe` brought much.closeiutogether than in the case where they `are" situatedontwofindependent juxtaposed. bllS. `I l i i C l; l i g 115 It should"be quiteunderstood that all a these y arrangements of" l perforatedbars 1 are only given byg wayof example, and that any other combinationof perforations `may be fm employed"according to the various circum` 120stances. y i; u m y The metal bars are all` of the length `of the loomthat is tosa-yyt ;to5 Lmetersl;` again the weight ofthe four to fivethousand pull bars um and needles which `thesevbars have to raise beplaced very close together to support the two rows of bars. Thesesupports are con-` j stituted by the cross'bars 66 arranged parallelwith the oblique rows of needles as is shown in Figs. vand 20. Bythecombination of these bars 64, 65 with the ncedles57,

"58, .with the pull rods 83 which said bars raise, and the operatingmechanisms of said pull rods, the levers communicate to the I carriageswith which they are in engageinto the two front and rear comb bars 4 andu' threads have to work.,

5'. These two comb bars are, atv pleasure, either moved in the vlongritudinal direction Vof the loom, for the purpose of making the carriage'threads' cross each other, or are kept` stationary when the warp orspool lThe movement of the front andrear comb bars is controlled by thefollowing device:

At each of their ends the two comb bars are connected by pieces 67, 68to the ends of a lever 69 movable about a pivot 70 (see Figs. 4 and 5).Opposite one of the ends of each `of these levers is arranged a bentlever 71,

movable about a pivot 72 and lcarrying a roller 78 which is in contactwith a cam 74 keyed upon a transverse shaft 75 of the loom (see'Figs. 4to 6).

`Between the free end of the bent lever 71 and the lever 70 may beinterposed at will a `tappet 76, in such manner that the lever 69 may becarried along or not by the movement of the bent lever 71, according asthis tappet isA interposed or not (see Fig. 4). This tappet can slidefre-ely in a groove made for this purpose inthe lever 69 which carriesit, and is connected by a rod 77y to a bent lever 78 movable about astationary pivot 79 (see Fig. 5). c

The twobent levers 78 areconnected to each other by a cable or rod 80and are driven from one side by the Jacquard :apparatus which works thewarp or. spool thready bars and is held backen the other side by latension spring '81.

-The'two tappets 76 are driven in such a wayv that when oney comesintooperation the other is thrown out of operation. By this arrangement thelfront `comb barscan remain stationary as longvas may be desired byproviding that'the tappets remain' alwaysr in the same position.` n Y.The catch bars `6 and 7 correspondingv to the two comb bars 4 and 5 aremounted in the following manner.

Each of the arms 82 carrying the catch bars is connected to. the arm 83`which supports the corresponding'comb bar by a fork v'and 6).

84 which engages with the pintle 85 of the loom and is provided with alug 86 fixed of the catch bars are carried along bythe `movement to andfro ofthe supports of the comb ybars and can nevertheless kmove anguonthis arm 83. By'this device the supports c larly relatively to theselatter (see Figs. 4 y

The catch bars rest upon the arms 82 and are held by bent arms 87 fixedtothe end of these latter. t

|lhe roller threads vpass in the ordinary way between the two middlecomb bars.

The operation of the invention isas fol lows: At each motion of theloom, when the carriages l selected by the levers have been brought intothe. front or rear comb bars 4,

5, and when these latter have received their longitudinal movement, thatis to say when the loom has effected, at the desired points,

the crossings of the carriage threads withl each other, the point combl0 comes down,

(see Fig. 8), to take hold of the crossings andbring them up to thecenterv of the loom.

The independent points' l1 then come into` operation, some remainingengaged in the tissuev for the purpose of fulfilling the function of thepins stuck in the cushion in hand :manufacture and the others thepresence of which in the tissue is no longer of any use, are broughtback to the rear, (see Fig. 2),

and receive a slight angular movement downward, so as to engage inthetissue under the corresponding pointsfof the comb 10 when they arebrought forward. f These points 1l are therefore for the'. purpose ofholding backthe crossings which have been previously brought up by'theselatter to the centerof the loomgV Eachpoint 1l can be held in engagementwithvth'e tissue as long as is necessary without interfering with'theworking of the'other points. 'The jacquard operated points" 11, engagedin the tissue, maintain and ho-ld back, 'during the desired time, thecrossings on thecenter line of the 'loom,fby preventing them from beingcarried along by the movement transmitted to the lacel as it ismanufactured, by the take up device, now shown. lThus for eXamplein thecase yof the manufacture of the pattern representedin Fig. 27, points11a, engaged in the tissue prevent the crossings @which t' have justbeen'formed, fromj'being carried along by the advance movement ofthetissue and hold back these crossingsl oni the center line of theloomwhile the formation of the succeeding crossings is going on.y Thethree crossings a, 5,0 can thus be obtained on one and the same line andconstitutel openings in the tissue.l By leaving the points 1lat engagedin the tissue for one more motion, the crossings c last made can becarried higher than the crossings c first made,-as is shown in Fig. 28.y

It will be understood that Athe jacquard operated points of the loomi`allowallkindsi? of patterns to be executed,"and the saineeff,

fects to be produced as are produced in the j lace which is made byhandand also allows essary openings. j j

In the present loom the., Warp or spool threads like the supplementarybobbins einployed by thelace worker in hand manu-` facture may likewiseenter into the consti-` tution of the network, and` fulfil the same`function `as the carriage threads; this c ombination of warp orspool`and carriage` threads allows the fineness ofthe loom to be augmentedand the numberof motions to be; reduced. Thus for example `for themanufacture of the` patterns called ,LVPoint Figs. 29 to 33 show, byiwayof example,` the mode of manufacture of a section of a pattern as shownin Fig. 34 `with the present loom by means of three bobbinthreads che,

f and one warp or spool thread g. At the commencement, (see Fig.,29'),the crossing-` of the bobbin threads e, f is produced by thelongitudinal movement ofthe comb bars on which have been brought thecarriages of these threads e, f; on theynext stroke of the loom the combbars are brought back into `their original position and this movementproduces the crossings of the bobbin threads cl, f, (see Fig. 30).Fromthis moment onward the comb bars are no longer moved longitudinallyand the warpor spool thread `g comes into action. Thecarriagesfofthethreads e, f are carriedtogthe rear, the carriage of the thread ai pis`brought forward and the warp or spool thread g goes across passingbetween the threads e, f and behind `the thread d, (see Fig. 31) inasingle stroke of the loom. On the next stroke of the loo-m` the carriageof the thread d passes to the rear, the carriages of the threads e and fcome "to the front and `the warp or spool thread g passes infront ofthethread d and behind the threads `e and fand so on. `At the end of threeor four shots, the carriage threads have resumed their normal distanceapart, (see Fig. 32). At this moment when the two threads forming theedges of the `section of the pattern haveto be separated iii-st one andthen the other to increase the width of this section, the warp or s oolthread g ceases to work and the comb ars are `brought back intooperation` so as to cause these threads to cross with the adjacentcarriage threads z., i. The comb bars are again brought to a standstilland the warp or spool thread g passes over the five carriage threads ina single motion, as is andthe carriage thread-,iI always .behind so j jj as not to be caughtby thewarp or spoolthread patterns to 4be formedwhich instead of bey y ing opaque present at certainplaces the necgpThezyvarp orspool threadthus passesover five carriage threads land onlyseizes three `oftliese threads. The width` of thesectilon lof thepatternis, thus increased `by twocarthreads, z' nothavingbeen caught bythe warpor spool thread g `are brouglit back 5to j their normal place. ,1,Mlheni `the i adj acent'l car,- 5 ringe threads Iz, 2,', are themselvesutilized for 80 production of a section, supei'posed sec- Itions ofthekind representedby l3`ig.1?5y Iwill i l,

be obtained;l very; elaborate patterns may f thus be produced andconsequently very rich By the special arrangement and combination of itsconstituent eleinentsjthe present j loom can therefore, as has beenpreviously stated, have all the same effects andfpatterns as areobtained in manufacture by 9i) hand, `and it should be quite understoodthat the dimensions `and details of construction of these constituentelements may be modi- It is to be understood that by theterm jacquard ismeant a drive by pattern cards.

1. In a loom for the manufacture of lace, the carriages and bobbins, thecombs for guiding the carriages, means `for shifting the earriagesapoint bar 10for bringingthe crossings to the center of the loom, movablepoints l1 independent from each other and arranged opposite the` pointbar 10, a jacquard for independently actuating each of 1&5`

able points 11 independentfrom,each `other and arranged opposite thepoint `bar l0, a j bent lever 15 to which each point 11 is* hinged, aneedle 19 carried at thefree end of each lever, perforated bars 20, ajacquard for actuating said perforated bars, said needle 19 being` putin actionwhen it encounters a solid part of said bars and rej lmainingstationary when it'encountersla j perforation in said bars, a constantlyrocki ing bar 24 into the path` of which the bent lever is broughtwhensaid lever is put in action, the said lever being displaced by saidrocking bar, a vertically movable box 27 into which the rear part oftherespective 130 4point 11 is brought When the leveris dis-i' placed, thesaid box` servingfto vbringthe point 1l yinto theinoperative position,so that said points ll'fmay be 'loweredfat thetirne they enter into thetissue. j

3. In alooni for the manufacture of lace, a point bar '10 forbringingthe crossings to `the 'center of the loom, movable points l1independent froml each ether and arranged opposite the point bar'lO, ajacquard for independently actuating each of said -Inovable'points ll,the carriages lyand the bobbins, two 'central coinb bars?, 3, a frontcatch bar 6, areancatch bar 7, a lever 8 *actuated to bringthexcarriiages from said central comb bars I'either to-a front catch baror a rear catch bar, front and rear comb bars 41 and f5 towhich saidcarriages are.

brought froinvs'aid front-land rear catch bars, the said -front and rearcomb ybars being capable of receiving a to'and'iro4 motion 'in thelongitudinal direction `01'5 the loom,` so

v.ferent sizes for preventing 'the lateral "esgr cape of" the insertedprojection. n

The vforegoing specification of niy 1m- 'provernents vin andconneetedwith the Ine# chanical manufacture of'l'ace signed by me lthisseventeenth` dav` of May'l910.

' j JEAN" FAnieoULE.;

Witnesses;

H. (1Com,

R. EHIRIOT.

Copiespof this vpatent may be obtained` for ve cents eaoh,'by addressingthe (ommissoner of Patents, Washington, D. C. j

